All up in The Grill
Posted: November 9, 2011 Filed under: Champagne, Drink, Food, Luxury, Restaurant, Service Leave a comment
Somewhat decadently, I recently lunched in The Grill at The Dorchester twice within the space of a week. My guests both were slightly taken by surprise when I suggested The Grill as a venue for it is not a new or much hyped current dining destination in London. I like to compare The Grill to an eccentric relativeyou have to visit as they will not come to you, yet every journey is worth the trip; you come away having thoroughly enjoyed yourself, wondering why you don’t visit more often.
Opened along with The Dorchester in 1931, The Grill was a traditional hotel restaurant with a reputation for Sunday roasts and its carving trolley. On his appointment in 2009, Head Chef Brian Hughson, formerly of Rhodes W1, decided to revive these traditions and concentrate on the provenance of his ingredients long before this became a bragging point for restaurants. To date, ‘dish of the day’ and the smoked salmon carving trolley are just two of the esoteric features which guarantee clients return time and again to this Mayfair stalwart.
The Thierry Despont designed interior is very much a Marmite space. Awash with tartan, frescoes of dashing Scotsman metres high – drawing inspiration from the original owners of The Dorchester; the McAlpine family – The Grill could be an assault on the senses were it not for the serene overall atmosphere. Genteel, twinkly piano music floats around the room, excellent staff welcome, serve and care for you in clipped, elegant sotto voce. The menu is a delight to behold in a city swarming with experimental, pioneering chefs, dishes and cuisines; fresh and simple with enough flair to warrant the prices.
Now, to serious matters; the food. As it is in season, and The Grill is one of the best places for game in London, I chose the Grouse Faggot starter on both occasions recently which is accompanied by pine nut, red and white quinoa, lemon and cumin sauce. A delightfully presented portion on an enormous, dramatic plate imparts subtly seasoned, beautifully cooked grouse which blends sumptuously with the quinoa and a mild tart hint from the lemon and cumin sauce.
At the time of writing this, sadly the lamb dish I devoured on my first visit is no longer available, but the salmon main most definitely still is. Pan fried salmon with potatoes, lobster, pea mousse, lemon grass and samphire was delectable. With a rather heavy starter, something light but flavoursome was required as a continuation and this hit the spot with full marks. The lobster supported the perfectly cooked salmon adding meatiness and a richness as well as texture, whilst the delicate pea mousse, lemon grass and samphire brought intriguing flavours which complimented rather than overwhelmed the other ingredients.
As this was lunch, our bibulous tendencies were rather restrained, sadly the office beckoned after both occasions. This, however, did not hamper our efforts to take advantage of the 80 wines at 80 pounds offer that The Grill is running in celebration of The Dorchester’s 80th Anniversary. A glass of Jacky Charpentier Reserve Rose kicked off both meals with a fizz and a pop. Rich with good attack on the palate, rounded mouthfeel and decent length, this was the perfect aperitif. With the salmon I was recommended a glass of 2009 Mission Estate sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. Not usually a fan of antipodean wines, I took the plunge and was pleasantly surprised. Not too acidic and propped up the variety of flavours and textures in my main course. An inspired choice.
Im summation, The Grill at The Dorchester needs to be visited full stop. People may be full of reasons why they don’t choose to dine there; we booked months in advance for this, there is an experimental menu here, we heard the manager at this new opening is bonkers…yadda yadda, waffle waffle. Decent, high-quality, uber tasty British fare will always go down well. Not every meal needs to be at the bleeding edge of experimental cuisine. Relax into a tartan throne and revel in the slightly ostentatious surrounds with impeccable service and damm tasty grub, I implore you.
Park Lane
London W1K 1QA
Photography courtesy of Dorchester Collection
Please sir, can I have some Hawksmore?!
Posted: November 6, 2011 Filed under: Drink, Food, Restaurant, Service 1 CommentThe announcement of another branch of Hawksmoor opening in London was met with much fervour, panting and hysteria. Why? If you have ever tried their steak you will know why. In a city now riddled with a fantastic number of restaurants that cater to our carnivorous tendencies, Hawksmoor remains a beacon, a leader. They do not need to serve the fanciest, most experimental food to sustain their following. The quality and flavour of their fare speaks for itself. Having visited their Spitalfields and Seven Dials sites, I was eagerly awaiting the chance to try the new Guildhall opening. When the soft opening invitation arrived it became my number one priority.
Hawksmoor Guildhall is the largest of the Hawksmoor sites with 160 covers. This is a cavernous restaurant that cocoons you with its dark wood, aged leather and intimate lighting. My guest and I started our Guildhall experience in the bar, she with a Tobacco Old Fashioned (bourbon stirred with sugar & homemade tobacco bitters) which was smoky, delightful and “stronger than neat whisky, WOAH how is that possible?”, and I with a rather more sedate French 75 (Gin, lemon, sugar, homemade orange bitters, topped with Champagne). This is a traditional cocktail I enjoy with a twist at The Dorchester, but the homemade orange bitters brought not overbearing sweetness to the fore and Champagne added a touch of freshness so that the drink didn’t cloy on the palate. Service was friendly and efficient, we quizzed our waiter about various drink ingredients and suggestions, he had an informative and witty response to all we could throw at him. Excellent. Onward…
The second part of our evening plays out in the main dining room which was about a third full due to the soft opening. As voracious carnivores both, we knew we were having steak from the minute the reservation was made, yet much attention was paid to the starters and side dishes as well as choosing our cuts. The menu here is simple in the most pleasing way; understandable, attractive and not overwhelming. We opted for lobster cocktail and veal tartare to start. The lobster cocktail was a decent serving that came elegantly presented with sufficient dressing to support but not overpower the meatiness of the crustacean. A fan of beef and tuna tartare, this was my first time trying veal. It was creamier and richer than I expected and thoroughly moreish with some toasts to add crunch. Our continuation was one fillet (medium) with stilton hollandaise and one rib-eye (medium rare) with bearnaise. Both steaks were cooked brilliantly to order. I cannot have blood in a medium steak whereas my companion loves hers a little sanguine. Sauces were rich without trouncing the flavour of the steaks, a delectable accompaniment. On the side we shared baked sweet potato and creamed spinach. Sadly we had no room for the lobster mac’n’cheese, in fact we struggled to eat what we had ordered. Portions are large, but that is always preferable to too little. Mains were lubricated with a fine bottle of Malbec; Pulenta 2009. Our first choice was unavailable so we plumped for something a might more special, but still reasonably priced for a good wine. Plus steak and malbec reminds me of living in Buenos Aires so I can never not be content when they are around.
Having enjoyed a pre-pre- and a pre-prandial, we were significantly lacking in room or will for desert and a post-prandial. Coffee steeled our constitutions to brave what seemed one of the first nights of proper English winter and we poured ourselves into a taxi home. Slumped in a meat coma we both definitely agreed that Hawksmoor have done it again; an approachable, high quality, enjoyable setting for an evening – slightly more special than most as prices do not constitute an everyday expense – with food that you don’t mind loosening your belt for in public. Service was consistent and considerate throughout, and it is just a shame that I work so far from this City location otherwise I would be in an even more precarious financial predicament…
10/12 Basinghall Street
London EC2V 5BQ
Photos courtesy of Kitchen Communications
Unkle Karl Hits The Bottle
Posted: October 26, 2011 Filed under: Art, Design, Drink, Fashion, Luxury 1 Comment
Despite having little interest in actually drinking alcohol, be-gloved fashion Methuselah Karl Lagerfeld does have a vested interest in wine, whether he likes it or not. The Chanel Creative Director has found time amongst pimping Coke bottles and releasing diffusion lines in his bulging diary to design a limited edition label for the 2009 vintage of Château Rauzan-Ségla, which Chanel has owned since 1994. 2009 is the 350th anniversary of this legendary Grand Cru Classé Château, situated in the heart of the Margaux appellation and founded by Pierre de Rauzan in 1661. Today the Chateau is looked after by General Manager John Kolasa, previously of Chateau Latour, and it looks like 2009 will see worldwide acclaim for Rauzan-Segla as wine deity Robert Parker has said that with this year, the Chateau may have produced its greatest wine since 1986. Quite the cause for celebration…
This may all be well and good, but how do we get our hands on this undoubted collectors item? Berry Bros & Rudd had the wine en primeur for about £70 and expect it will retail for close to £100 in early 2012. Regardless of cost, as a piece of design history, this is an essential investment. And they’ve made rather a classy little video too…
The name on everybody’s lips is gonna be…
Posted: October 3, 2011 Filed under: Champagne, Fashion, Luxury, Menswear 1 Comment
Not bloody Roxie, that’s for sure. Spencer Hart is the only moniker you need etch onto your brain now that the cutting edge tailor has opened its flagship store opposite Claridge’s. Created by fashion industry stalwart Nick Hart nearly 10 years ago, the idea behind the brand was to bring a more minimalistic, louche, somewhat rebellious touch to tailoring without compromising on the unparalleled quality for which Savile Row has earned its deserved reputation.
What the brand has done within this prime slab of Mayfair real estate, a former bank, is shoehorned a reflection of “a modern utopia influenced by the likes of Neutra, Sinatra, Warhol and Kerouac, into a fresh and modern retail world for men”. Set artfully over two floors, the space also serves as a showcase for products aside from just the tailoring, including a more relaxed collection called ‘Palm Springs’, plus various collaborations with the likes of Floris, Edward Green shoes and Oliver Goldsmith eyewear. I mimbled along to the celebrity launch party (featured in the Independent and the Evening Standard dontchaknow!) to see exactly what they had achieved. And to inhale a few litres of Champagne…
I was first struck by the searing heat of the place. A slight hiccup with the air-conditioning had rendered the inside hotter than hades. This however is forgivable as in the two days before, I had seen photos of the interior from the design company (Shed) and they did a spot on job to get ready in time – the interior was very elegant, dramatic, a touch Palm Springs from the 60’s, a little Art Deco, swathes of white, cream beige, suede, even a hanging shirt table – a superb focal point of the main floor area. Guests including Brett Anderson, Alfie Allen, the Arctic Monkeys, the Kooks and Lawrence Dellaglio (not ideal for a slim cut suit?) plus many dapper dressers were pouring in to enjoy Billecart-Salmon Champagne, Belvedere cocktails (big tick for both of those!) and some pretty ruddy fascinating people watching. I was fortunate to sneak off for a private tour of the underground lair before things got too rammed. Accessed by a supremely cool, Bond villain-esque, electric door in the wall, the basement is a shrine to the bespoke. Here there is seemingly nothing that you cannot customise. Sunglasses even come with a choice of bridge fitting so they sit perfectly on your nose. This whole hideout is known as ‘Black Seersucker’ and was the vault during the store’s previous incarnation as a bank. An intimate, decadent space that fills you with mischievous thoughts, this is also where cufflinks and antique watches chosen by Nick Hart himself are housed. I dashed back upstairs to make friends with the servers of bubbles before my mind was filled with the thoughts of a megalomaniac and my wardrobe with the suits of a Rat Pack cad.
Perusing the rest of the store, you notice just how much thought has gone into the building, as well as the clothes. There are suede banquettes and window linings that have delicately placed piles of Penguin classic books; Jack Kerouac features heavily, so does Hunter S Thompson. The art work is all aimed solely at a Spencer Hart man living the roguish lifestyle I imagine they are thought to lead. Above all what strikes me is attention to detail. The decoration and display was considered and effective, nothing felt out of place or silly and that translates into the clothes. Which is good because they are by no means disposable fashion. Spencer Hart creates pieces that are to be invested in for the long term. Something I shall be doing very shortly, finances be dammed.
Spencer Hart
62-64 Brook Street
Mayfair W1
Photography: Ed Reeve
Cutting the ice in London.
Posted: September 18, 2011 Filed under: Destination, Drink, Food, Luxury, Restaurant Leave a comment
CUT at 45 Park Lane – seen from the hotel lobby
Having made appearances in Frasier, American Idol and even The Simpsons, it was high time Wolfgang Puck brought his culinary WOW to Europe, hailing as he does from Austria and not already having a restaurant in this continent. This lamentable situation has been recently rectified by the opening of CUT at 45 Park Lane, the new Dorchester Collection hotel in Mayfair. My dining companion and I had been champing at the bovine bit for weeks prior to our dinner here and hot hoofed it just after opening. As a raging boozehound *AHEM* gentleman in possession of a sophisticated and curious palate, I insisted we have a libation at Bar 45 beforehand. The cocktail list is intriguing and unexpected with combinations that make you utter an interested ‘ooooh’ rather than an ‘euuugh’ that often results in ordering a simple gin & tonic. We sampled between us a Pepino’s Revenge – 7 Leguas Blanco Tequila, Japanese Cucumber, Basil, Lime – which was refreshing, subtle, flavoursome with a hint of bite, elegantly served in a Riedel ‘O’ tumbler with a hunk of ice apparently hacked from a glacier and a Pandora’s Box – Gin based, something sugary…my memory span is shocking – which had light, sweet but not overpowering ingredients which brought out the delicate flavours of the Gin. All round a very successful start with chic, sophisticated surrounds and friendly, already knowledgeable staff (I quizzed them suitably about drink ingredients). The nuts were hellish moreish too. If ‘inhaleable’ isn’t an adjective to describe food, I now decree it to be.
Sumptuous Bar 45
Descending from Bar 45 to the main salon and escorted to our table, we were struck by the dramatic height of the room and intelligent use of mirrors to make the space appear larger. We were seated in the alcove at the rear of the restaurant which is surrounded by a series of Damien Hirst’s Butterflies. For someone who usually loathes all things Hirst, I found these pleasing to the eye and they suited the glossy, contemporary interior perfectly. Our full CUT experience began with the friendly, engaging head sommelier Vanessa suggesting a Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, we agreed and enjoyed this with breads (a VERY important factor in top restaurants for me) including onion foccacia which was hot, with deliciously sweet onions that I slathered in sea salt butter – pure class, me – and something to amuse our bouches; a mini USDA prime burger, brioche bun, cheddar, caramelised onion, tomato chutney. Phwoar. Fully amused. The first important decision of the evening was starters. After much deliberation we plumped for: Maple Glazed Pork Belly, Asian Spices, Watercress, Sesame-Orange dressing, Apple Compote (the companion) and Big Eye Tuna Tartar, Wasabi Aioli, Ginger, Togarashi Crisps, Tosa Soy (moi). I made sure I tried both, despite my companion being a bit put out that I attacked her pork belly. The tuna (pictured below) was delicious, flat out. Meaty, tender, seasoned perfectly. I even ate the wasabi aioli and I would rather hammer my face than eat wasabi on a normal day. What little of the pork belly I managed to finagle from my co-diners plate was tender, flavoursome and paired the asian spices with the sesame-orange dressing beautifully.
Big Eye Tuna ogling you from the plate
Sometime during the first course, Wolfgang Puck IN THE FLESH came to greet us, asked how we were enjoying ourselves, then carried on doing the rounds. I was slightly starstruck but we were lucky to see him when he was in London as he was whipping back to LA shortly after to be there when his kids went back to school. Superstar chef and doting dad all in a days work. Between courses our mouths were further entertained by kobe beef with indian spices; a small version of the main course sadly unavailable that evening. The beef was superb, the spicing just right, not a combination I would dare try to cook myself but expertly executed. Sell your leg to try the full main course if you must. Whilst waiting for the main delight to arrive, sommelier Vanessa sidled over and said she had a treat for us. As she was still confirming her list, she wanted our thoughts on something; a 2007 Duck Horn Vineyard cabernet sauvignon from a standout year in the Napa Valley. I don’t like to ascribe tasting notes to wines as everyone has their own taste vocabulary but it was rich, full-bodied, mature (already) and would spar beautifully with the headstrong slabs of meat heading our way. Our respective second courses were the 10oz New York Sirloin USDA prime and the 14oz Rib Eye with Chimichurri (I am unable to leave my days in Argentina behind) and House Made Steak Sauce (companion needed to test their skills) plus sides of french fries with herbs and baby carrots with artichokes, thyme and honey. The portions were LARGE, pure US style. The meat was impeccably cooked. I used to like meat masquerading as shoe leather that would make the chef cry or shout, but have since been persuaded that pink is better. Medium was medium. There was no blood and the meat fell apart in my mouth. The carrots had crunch and retained their flavour, the french fries were thin, hot, crispy, delicious. I must point out here that my culinary accomplice is somewhat slighter and in possession of a lesser appetite than I, yet she was presented with literally half a cow. The steak was the size of her pretty HEAD. Be careful to order something you can stomach otherwise the waste is harrowing. We still had to squeeze in dessert and i didn’t have trouser buttons that could be undone and still retain my decency. Dilemma.
The Hirst Alcove
Tackling desserts required steeling ourselves and assaulting the menu with practicality. Something light and refreshing was required, urgently. My partner-in-dine chose the caramilk chocolate bar with caramel sauce and blackberry-elderberry sorbet, me the warm (slightly unexpected) passion fruit with shiso yoghurt and almond praline. I think by this point we were too royally stuffed to fully appreciate the desserts but the caramilk bar had an incredibly delicious rice krispie base and the yoghurt, tart passion fruit and crisp almond praline worked fantastically together. A forced coffee and we were rolling out of the immaculate lobby.
Overall thoughts; CUT at 45 Park Lane serves wondrous meat with innovate twists on the menu and welcoming staff to guide you through the experience. People have said that there are too many steak joints clamouring for attention in London, but this is definitely not a mere steak restaurant. The range of food at CUT and the quality and care of the execution means that people will be returning time and again to try the dish they didn’t choose on their last visit. Welcome to Europe Wolfgang, we are very happy you are finally here, long may you stay.
Photos courtesy of Dorchester Collection
Sins of the flesh: vodka by maceration
Posted: August 7, 2011 Filed under: Drink, Luxury, Music Leave a commentAlthough my heart belongs to Champagne, I find myself increasingly suspect about having sold my soul to vodka. I may have spent considerable amounts of time under nightclub tables when living in Russia as a result of the spirit, but I certainly learnt no appreciation of it in a country where there were more brands of vodka available in supermarkets than soft drinks. Strangely enough, it was turning 21 and being able to drink legally in the United States which prompted my own internal quality control. Having an aunt who spent ages perusing the spirit shelves in stores for the best deal on the best vodka for poolside drinkies had a profound effect on me. I always brought home a bottle of premium vodka from duty free at the airport as they were the 1 litre ones at an invariably better price, therefore would last longer so I would have more evenings of post-university vodka and tonics on my balcony to look forward to.
Originally I was a Grey Goose man, faithfully buying La Poire and the original without fail every time I travelled, but I was naive to the fact that the supposed heritage and tradition of the company wasn’t quite correct. What I had assumed was an aged French brand, was in fact designed specifically for the American market in a response to the launch of Belvedere. Both are high quality products with mass-market appeal but I somewhat felt hoodwinked by Grey Goose and have bought Belvedere ever since. I feel it is a very high visibility, somewhat ostentatious purchase if you are buying bottles in a nightclub, but to use in drinks in your own home out of personal preference, there are few rivals in the premium vodka category on the market. Now, to my point…
I recently attended one of the Belvedere Sanderson Predicts series of concerts at the Long Bar at The Sanderson hotel, London. Each year some of the hottest up and coming acts on the UK music scene are picked to give an intimate acoustic gig in the zen-like surrounds of the Suka restaurant courtyard whilst guests, diners, drinkers, VIPs and the odd well behaved fan look on from across the moat. In 2010 I experienced Fenech Soler before they became one of the most popular bands in England with a huge following, hit singles and a headlining gig at LeeFest. I was hoping for good things from Josh Beech & The Johns, performing the night I went. They were joined on the series line-up by Violet (Pixie Geldof’s new band), The Shoestrung, Yasmin, Glasser & The Heartbreaks. Keep eyes and ears peeled for these names in 2012, they will undoubtedly be massive. (Below: Josh Beech and The Johns.
Hosted by Belvedere UK we ploughed our way through the cocktail list (using exclusively Belvedere vodka, naturally) but it was the promise of a bottle of Belvedere Black Raspberry for my own personal misuse that was the real highlight of the evening. Sure enough, as the charming Sarah had promised, a bottle arrived on my desk a couple of days later. Using the finest raspberries from Northeast Poland, this blend intrigued me as I am used to the maceration technique being employed in Champagne production, but hadn’t encountered it before in spirits. The fruit is left to macerate in the vodka for one month before bottling, giving it the best opportunity to absorb all possible flavour from the berries. On recommendation I tried Black Rasbperry with just soda water, but as that is not to my taste returned to my old faithful mixer of choice; fever tree tonic. Five or six sizable ice cubes in a highball glass with a generous slug of Black Raspberry then topped up with tonic makes the perfect after-work wind down beverage for summer. Not too sweet that it is obnoxious, but just enough flavour to hold its own against the tonic, Black Raspberry surprised me as I do not have a sweet tooth. It has a luscious, smooth and velvety mouthfeel when drunk on its own and has the structure to compliment quality mixers with paired accordingly.
I shall endeavour to make the bottle last throughout the summer season and thank Belvedere for my wonderful night out, but shall be making no promises…
Ones country residence
Posted: July 21, 2011 Filed under: Destination, Luxury Leave a commentLast week I was fortunate enough to be personally shown around Coworth Park, the country house hotel in Berkshire from The Dorchester Collection. The property opened to much fanfare at the end of last year but has really hit its stride entering its first summer season. Guests are greeted by an overwhelming sea of French and English wild flowers planted in meadow-like fashion lining the meandering drive up to the main house, immediately creating a feeling of calm and relaxation.
The principal part of the hotel is the original Georgian manor house which has been sensitively restored and impeccably decorated by Fox Linton with eccentric English rural touches such as gymkhana rosettes mixed with art deco lamps and light fixtures. The overall effect is somewhere stylish but comfortable which makes you feel at ease, you can sink into one of the many sumptuous armchairs rather than perching on the cushion edge self-consciously.
Having a keen eye for detail, I noticed some of the more special touches which the hotel has incorporated into its everyday environment, two particular favourites being the book on every bath tray in the mansion house; The Book of Idle Pleasures by Tom Hodgkinson (after all this is a country retreat) and the ‘please make up my room’ signs having been reinterpreted as ‘ready for mucking out’.
Outside in the grounds, all 200 acres, of the hotel sit more rooms, designed with a stable theme, the Barn restaurant where many ladies who lunch lunch on a daily basis (we were near Ascot after all, dahling), the only polo facility belonging to any country house hotel – indeed they were stick and balling as we were whisked round on the Coworth golf carts, and the Sentebale (Prince Harry’s charity)Polo Cup was played here earlier in the year – intriguingly a bridge from which the house where John Lennon wrote Imagine can be seen and of course the all important spot for a luxury hideaway; the Spa. This is dug down into the ground and is hugely eco-friendly. The roof is coated with lavender which attracts bees and insulates the building to reduce heating costs. There is even a herb garden whose crops are used throughout the facility to enhance treatments. The overwhelming air of calm upon entering the spa made me want to spend the entire day swathed in the natural products on offer or floating in the Seychelles-esque infinity pool. Sadly, an evening of Champagne in London beckoned, but as a way to spend a gloriously sunny afternoon, I could think of little more pleasant. Now the only hurdle is to actually stay there and wake up to this view…!
Not quite enough of an insight? The delightful staff of Coworth Park have made a video of their experience of the property, it is really rather worth a glimpse;
Visuals: launch of the new Hush Heath Estate winery
Posted: June 15, 2011 Filed under: Uncategorized 1 CommentThis Monday I spent a rather relaxing, decadent day at the launch of Hush Heath Estate’s new winery in Kent. This is where Balfour rose, the English sparkling wine from Richard Balfour-Lynn, is produced. As I work in the Champagne industry I cannot tell you much about the wine for fear of a Champenois wanting to death me by sabrage, but I can condone the learning about different wine regions so try the wine and form your own uninfluenced opinion.
Here I present you some of what I saw with my eyes…
Guests being greeted with some Balfour rose (we had had bucks fizz on the bus, already well lubricated)
My lunchtime drinking
On our way to the vines…
Some Chardonnay vines
View from the beautifully manicured gardens across to the new winery
The winery itself; remarkably compact
Sunny, wine-y Monday!
Speaks for itself.
Cheers!
The ‘Bagel Shack’ takes on the upper crust.
Posted: June 12, 2011 Filed under: Current Affairs, Luxury, Spat Leave a commentMost people, when running the gauntlet of starting their own business, start with an idea and then give that idea a name. These tend to come from the easiest source of inspiration; one’s own moniker. But imagine a situation where you are not legally permitted to use that name. If that is the case, you may well be Robin Birley.
Robin Birley
Raging for quite a time now, the spat between Robin Birley and Richard Caring, the mahogany entrepreneur behind Caprice Holdings, hit a new plane with the recent announcement that Caring has extended his trademark of the Birley name. It now covers a bizarre array of products and services including condiments,shoe polish and shampoo (although ‘use Birley, keep your hair curly’ could just work as a slogan…). This appears to be a knee-jerk reaction to Birley refusing to accept Caring’s offer to take a friendly stake in Birley’s new members club 5 Hertford Street. This I see as somewhat like asking to have a part-claim in someone’s spouse.
5 Hereford Street is the new members club venture by Birley, an entire block of prime real estate behind the Curzon cinema. It will include two bars, restaurant, nightclub, bedrooms, mini-apartments and a very en vogue cigar-centric courtyard. It was, as Birley tells with exasperated tones, to be called ‘Robin Birley’s’ or ‘Birley’s’.
Artist rendering of 5 Hereford St.
Whilst the club itself is having the final touches added – a giant Manolo Blahnik shoe centrepiece is to arrive shortly – the two Gentleman of Mayfair clubland continue to circle each other venomously. This is yet another story of class versus graft, for Birley and Caring are polar opposites. Caring is the “brash” and “go-getting” (quote: Sunday Times magazine article by John Arlidge “Give me my name back”) Finchley lad who went on to become one of the biggest textile producers in Asia and Birley is the plummy progeny of Mark Birley who created Annabel’s, Mark’s Club, Harry’s Bar to name a few. His clan was also a quagmire of familial upsets and strife, which ultimately led to Robin being disinherited by his father and selling the clubs to Caring (who I always think looks a bit like a plush lion with a voracious blow dry, but I enjoy not being blacklisted from his establishments so will stop there). The tit-for-tat between the two players in this drama is rather hilarious. Caring simply calls Birley a ” twit who put his head in a tiger’s mouth” (referring to when Birley was mauled at Aspinall’s zoo) and his cohorts consider him a chinless ninny who represents the old-fashioned, stuck in the mud toffs who no longer have a place in the turbo-fuelled hedge fund playground of Mayfair. In retaliation, Birley’s high society chums (showing high levels of maturity…) poke fun at Caring’s floofy hair, his smooth and sunkissed visage, his ‘Norf Lundun’ home (the ‘Versailles of Hampstead’) and his attempt at a landed gentry’s country home – a shooting lodge referred mockingly to as ‘the bagel shack’.
Caring and Philip Green
So where can this highbrow beef lead? Once 5 Hereford St opens it will need to assert what it stands for; a quintessentially English experience of exclusivity and refinement where Annabel’s and other similar establishments have embraced the credit limits and insatiable need to party of the international jet-set. But is this model sustainable in today’s society? Well, Mr. Birley, invite me to experience things from the inside and I will let you know…
Fizz in the City: Searcy’s at One New Change
Posted: March 30, 2011 Filed under: Champagne, Luxury, Service Leave a commentTuesday 29th April : A very important moment for the City of London – Searcy’s launched their Champagne Bar concept at One New Change. I was there to eat, and most importantly, drink in my approval.
Searcy’s have seen remarkable success with their Champagne bar format since the launch of their record breaking ‘world’s longest Champagne bar’ at St. Pancras in 2007. Since then they have expanded at a voracious rate. Before One New Change, the launch of their Paddington bar in December 2010 saw glamour brought to the rather salubrious surroundings of one of London’s busiest railway stations. Their newest venue is a chic, spangly location in the heart of the City next to St. Paul’s Cathedral. With floor to ceiling windows it is a glamorous fishbowl that will undoubtedly become a mecca for the nearby law firms and multinational companies. The obvious draws for this finickity clientele will be the level of expertise Searcy’s brings to the Champagne category.
The obvious draw for me is the SALIVATASTIC CHARCUTERIE TABLE at the back of the bar where I could gladly spend the rest of my short, cholesterol laden, booze hound life. Chorizo, salami, ham, four types of cheese, three varieties of bread, all from England are piled high, tempting you to taste, gorge, devour. A dangerous place to spend most of the evening…as I did. BUT, back to the order of the day. CHAMPAGNE. And what a lot of it. The all important list is a marvel. One of the longest and most comprehensive in London this includes grandes marques & growers, blanc de noirs, blanc de blancs, sweeter styles, zero dosage, rose, vintage. You name it, it’s on there. And one of the most remarkable aspects of this location is their pioneering of Champagne decanting. Searcy’s have worked closely with Riedel crystal, leading purveyors of grape specific glassware, to understand the added benefit of using a decanter with Champagne. Whilst the benefits of decanting aged red wine are widely known and accepted, the same with Champagne is barely accepted. With fragile vintages this practice is not recommended but the list advises which wines will benefit from decanting and the added show and spectacle that it brings to the Champagne drinking experience is guaranteed to impress.
With staff who know what they are talking about (they were trained by the Champagne Bureau and numerous brands), chic surroundings, a never ending selection of delectable Champagne’s to try and food matchings to make your stomach to leap with delight, the One New Change Champagne bar is a place to linger, languish, lounge and laze in the most sophisticated way. Go, I implore you, taste, try something new, drink in the location for Champagne is back and Searcy’s are leading the charge.
See the enviable list here
One New Change Champagne bar details here
fulminations 